The Return of the S16?

I’ll admit I was a little more than disappointed when Nissan initially denied any rumor to the S-Chassis returning as a smaller, slimmer version of the 370Z to compete with the Toyobaru twins.

I never get tired of the S15

Many Nissan fans didn’t like the news that Nissan though of the Juke as a suitable replacement in the subcompact sports car class.

hmmm..

In 1996 Nissan unveiled the Urge, a six speed rear wheel drive roadster that was a few years to late to the game.

With Chevy and other manufacturers clamoring to replicate the success of the lightweight rear wheel drive Toyabaru twins, it only seems logical for Nissan to bring back something that’s long been a staple of their company.

In the fall of 2012, Nissan design director Shiro Nakamura talked Austrailian based automotive magazine Drive and hinted to the possibility of a lightweight rear wheel drive coupe.

Hinting to the possibility that Nissan may consider downsizing its sports cars, including possibly a sub-compact 370Z model got enthusiasts excited. He also revealed that the next version of the Nissan Z may not have a higher displacement motor than the current one.

“I much prefer smaller sports cars,” Nakamura said. “With 370Z, we still don’t know if the next-generation will have a smaller or larger engine.”

Besides the possibility of a smaller engine, Nakamura said reducing the weight of the next Z car is a priority and all other future Nissan sports cars will be lightweight.

As well as dropping hints to the next Nissan Z, Nakamura also spoke about the possible return of the Silvia, otherwise known in the States as the 240SX. Nakamura was notably coy when pressed for details from Drive Magazine, could this really be in the works at Nissan?

“I cannot say,” Nakamura said, “A light, sport coupe is a nice concept, I like it.” he would continue after reinforcing the fact that he was a huge fan of the lightweight rear wheel drive platform.

With the 350Z, 370Z, and the Skyline GT-R, could Nissan support all the different platforms and vehicles as well as possibly add the new 240SX to rival the FR-S and BRZ under the same performance moniker?

According to Nakamura, yes. “If there is a market, we will do it,” Nakamura said.

Rumors are abound regarding the MR engine and many have projected it’s use as a 1.8L powerplant. Question is will that be enough to hang with the likes of the new FR-S, BRZ and STi flagships that have recently been released?

If there’s any clue to the temperature of the “market” and the willingness of Chevy and other domestic manufacturers to join the lightweight rear wheel drive coupe race, we could see the S16 make a triumphant return.

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Project 240SX : Fortune favors the bold.

Well, it’s been a while since I’ve updated my blog here due to this unfortunate accident.

oops…

I crashed, I’ve gotten over it but my back hasn’t.

It was only a matter of time I suppose, given the abuse the S14 had been taking at the track. Fortunately, I’m relatively okay and I’m pretty fortunate to have escaped the entire episode without incident.

Moving forward, the car will be rebuilt, better, faster and lighter hopefully in time for next year.

Meanwhile, my focus for the 2JZGTE swap has taken an abrupt turn when I picked up Project SC a week ago. It took me some time to find a 5 speed manual, but I just didn’t want to deal with converting the auto to stick before my 2JZ swap.

Luck would have it, I found a cheap deal on a green 92 in SF. It didn’t take me long to swap over my wheels and rims, after a trip to Treds and some Butchie love.

Up next, the return of the 240SX, but not before some SC300 modding.

Note : The title is borrowed from jsworks, a fellow gearhead, enthusiast, inspiration and overall cool guy.

Check out his work after the jump!

JS Works \ Fortune Favors the Bold

Project 240SX : And the hits just keep on coming…… CT26 turbo failure

I’ve begun to tear into the 2jz and start cleaning, prepping and stripping for the swap into my s14. It’s been slow going for Project 240SX, but I’ve had more than enough on my plate lately.

The saga of the 2JZ just refuses to die down, because after inspecting the CT26 turbos, I’ve been setback yet again.

Using a turbo bench, it appears as though the CT26 will not build more boost than 4 psi.

This CT26 from a 7MGTE was a cheap starter turbo to get my swap in and running before cams and headswap and a bigger single.

At a the cheap price I had found it at ( thanks to Frank @ TTA ) it was a no brainer but now it won’t build any boost which makes it about as useful as a doorjam.

Troubleshooting a CT26 Turbo

Recommended tools : Air compressor, 14mm open wrench, 8mm socket

First we check the shaft play of the turbo, which seems to be fine. There are no excessive oil leaks or signs of blown seals on our CT26, and the CHRA seems to be in decent shape all things considered.

The turbo spins freely and nothing looks like it’s hitting one another, so we turn to the wastegate.

Using a air hose nozzle to gently blow into the internal wastegate inlet, the arm of the internal wastegate appears to be moving.

That means either the flapper is done or the arm may be bent out of shape, holding the flapper open.

Removing the 4 14mm nuts that hold the 02 housing to the exhaust housing. This will allow access to the internal wastegate flapper and troubleshooting the lack of turbo pressure.

Upon opening the unit back up we find that the internal passage that leads to the flapper have completely cracked open. Since the flapper can no longer close the opening sufficiently to build boost due to the stress and cracking, it means that I’ll need a new housing.

This brings me to a crossroads because if this turbo cost anymore than it already did ( nothing ) I had to decide whether or not the investment would be worth it in the CT26.

Next up : Looking at possible turbo replacements

Project 240SX – Oh… the Irony….

Well as some of you know, our flush mount hood pin install on a S13 writeup caused some legal issues to come to the forefront. As those issues do not pertain to me individually, I would encourage those shopping for a flush mount hood pin kit ( or ANY performance part ) to do their due diligence before plopping your hard earned cash down on anything.

So imagine the irony when my JDM hood flipped up and smashed my windshield and roof in the middle of a Patterson Pass run.

At around 45 mph, entering a hairpin turn on the south end of the canyon road, my hood suddenly flipped up. With less than 30 feet between me and a large drop off into a canyon, I was reminded why I installed a set of Evolution X calipers on my 240SX.

The car came to a stop just as the front passenger side tire had rolled off the cliff, largely unharmed but not without damage.

What my roof looks like now…..

What my kouki hood looks like now…

Where the stock hood latch decided to shear off it’s mounting points. I am unclear as to how exactly this happened, but I have a feeling the previous owner had performed some “modifications”

I am just happy that I got to walk away from the accident, and that no further damage was done.

Unfortunately, kouki hoods are hard to find nowadays and I am having a hard time justifying a carbon fiber hood since I’ll most likely have to cut holes for ventilation once the 2jz goes in.

The accident has also sped up my timetable as far as getting work done on the car. It’s just too easy for me to get into a groove and be lazy, and perhaps the hood incident will get me to get off my ass and actually complete this project.

Time will tell..

Case Studies – Installing Megan Track Coilovers on a S14

Today we’ll be installing a set of Megan Track Coilovers for a 1996 Nissan 240SX, part number MR-CDK-NS14TS.

Here’s a shot of the car in question, currently running a set of TEIN Stech springs, part number SKP06-AUB00.

Sorry everyone but this writeup has been moved to it’s new permanent home, please click the photo below to make the jump or this link.

 

Project 240SX – Installing EVO X Brakes

This post has been moved to it’s new permanent home at My Pro Street, where they have purchased the intellectual rights to this article. If you have a how to site and want to make some spare cash check them out. Click here for the full article.

Click here for the How To upgrade your 240sx brakes

Click here for the How To upgrade your 240sx brakes

For the time being, we will be using a Centric 300zx brake master, part number 46010-30P22 for a master cylinder bore of 17/16th. However due to the ever elusive third brake fitting, we opt for a banjo bolt solution instead.

By using a m10 banjo bolt fitting, we install another Russell 65702 – banjo straight to 10mm female -3 and another Aeroquip FCM2945 – -3 male to 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare to go to the passenger side front brake.

 

Case Studies – Installing Megan Rear Upper and Lower Arms in a S14

Today we are bolting on a set of Megan Rear Upper Control arms, and Megan Racing Lower Control arms in a 1996 240SX ( S14 ), part numbers are :

MR-RTCA-NS14Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms

These arms allow you to change the static toe and toe change during suspension compression and load. An easy bolt-in upgrade, alignment is required after this install.

MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms

These arms are meant to adjust rear camber to whatever specifications you desire. Replacing the stock rubber bushings with pillow ball ends provides a upgrade in stiffness and response.

Here is the car in question before the install :

Tools you will need for this install :

  • 14mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 17mm socket and open ended wrench
  • 19mm socket and open ended wrench
  • jack and jack stands
  • MR-RTCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Lower Toe Arms
  • MR-RUCA-NS14 – Nissan 240SX Rear Upper Control Arms
First jack up the car and secure it safely using your jackstands, for those of you fortunate enough to work on a 2 post lift, just remove your wheels.
First use your 19mm socket and open ended wrench to undo the outmost bolt holding your rear upper control arm in place.

Next take off the rear bolt, and put the bolts safely away. You should now be able to remove your entire rear upper arm

Now, you’re ready to install your rear upper arm but not before lining your old arm up and adjusting the Megan arm to a similar length. You will need an alignment after this install regardless, so you might want to keep the jam nuts loose.

Next undo the outer most bolt in your rear lower toe arm, this bolt is located to the rear and left of your shock housing ( from the driver side )

Now, undo the inner bolt and this arm will come right off

Now install your new rear toe arm by reversing the process and you’re done!

Make sure your jam nuts are tight if you cannot align your vehicle right away, you don’t want them coming loose on you.

After your alignment, you should be ready to rock and roll!

Happy Drifting!