The Return of the S16?

I’ll admit I was a little more than disappointed when Nissan initially denied any rumor to the S-Chassis returning as a smaller, slimmer version of the 370Z to compete with the Toyobaru twins.

I never get tired of the S15

Many Nissan fans didn’t like the news that Nissan though of the Juke as a suitable replacement in the subcompact sports car class.

hmmm..

In 1996 Nissan unveiled the Urge, a six speed rear wheel drive roadster that was a few years to late to the game.

With Chevy and other manufacturers clamoring to replicate the success of the lightweight rear wheel drive Toyabaru twins, it only seems logical for Nissan to bring back something that’s long been a staple of their company.

In the fall of 2012, Nissan design director Shiro Nakamura talked Austrailian based automotive magazine Drive and hinted to the possibility of a lightweight rear wheel drive coupe.

Hinting to the possibility that Nissan may consider downsizing its sports cars, including possibly a sub-compact 370Z model got enthusiasts excited. He also revealed that the next version of the Nissan Z may not have a higher displacement motor than the current one.

“I much prefer smaller sports cars,” Nakamura said. “With 370Z, we still don’t know if the next-generation will have a smaller or larger engine.”

Besides the possibility of a smaller engine, Nakamura said reducing the weight of the next Z car is a priority and all other future Nissan sports cars will be lightweight.

As well as dropping hints to the next Nissan Z, Nakamura also spoke about the possible return of the Silvia, otherwise known in the States as the 240SX. Nakamura was notably coy when pressed for details from Drive Magazine, could this really be in the works at Nissan?

“I cannot say,” Nakamura said, “A light, sport coupe is a nice concept, I like it.” he would continue after reinforcing the fact that he was a huge fan of the lightweight rear wheel drive platform.

With the 350Z, 370Z, and the Skyline GT-R, could Nissan support all the different platforms and vehicles as well as possibly add the new 240SX to rival the FR-S and BRZ under the same performance moniker?

According to Nakamura, yes. “If there is a market, we will do it,” Nakamura said.

Rumors are abound regarding the MR engine and many have projected it’s use as a 1.8L powerplant. Question is will that be enough to hang with the likes of the new FR-S, BRZ and STi flagships that have recently been released?

If there’s any clue to the temperature of the “market” and the willingness of Chevy and other domestic manufacturers to join the lightweight rear wheel drive coupe race, we could see the S16 make a triumphant return.

Advertisements

Case Studies – Installing an HKS catback on a S13

Today we are installing an old-school HKS Hi-Power onto a 1992 Nissan 240SX SE.This is an older HKS unit with the old school dual exhaust tips, meant for NA applications.

Tools you will need for this install :

First raise the car up and locate your cat, depending on your vehicle and how old it is / exposure to rain / elements it may be rusted. If so use a can of Blast Away or similar product to get the nuts lubed up.

Next undo the 14mm nuts holding the cat to the exhaust midsection.

Now locate your exhaust hangers forward of the gas tank and to the left of the tank, held on by 2 14mm bolts.

Now you can drop your entire exhaust as one piece, make sure to take care when removing the catalytic converter bolts, as they tend to rust and may strip if not removed carefully.

Here is a comparison shot between the stock unit and the upgraded HKS catback.

Another shot of the midpipe and the comparison between both units

Now hang the rear muffler section onto the back of the S13, re-using the factory rubber hangers.

Next bolt up the midpipe to the cat, securing it by reusing the 14mm nuts you removed. Now line up the midpipe with the rear section, making sure to make a positive seal with the supplied HKS exhaust gasket.

Now tighten her up and you are done!

Enjoy and good luck!

Jesse’s RB25 S13 – Installing Top Feed Injectors

When we last left the RB25 S13, the injector duty cycles kept us from bumping up the boost and making some real power. The solution? some 760cc top feed Precision Injectors to help our S13 crack the 450whp mark.

Parts you will need for this conversion

First we begin by opening the fuel cap and disconnecting the fuel feed lines, engine harness and fuel filter setup.

Next unbolt the 3 12 mm bolts to the rail and lift the entire rail along with side feed injectors, take care when doing this because you don’t want to lose your fuel rail isolators ( the plastic pieces that space out your rail from your head.

Jesse was using a Z32 fuel filter, which we will be ditching for a Aeroquip -6 1000 micron inline filter.

Someone light a match and throw it at John! QUICK!

Next, install your injectors into your aftermarket rail, take care when pushing the injectors in so to not damage your o-rings. Without any damage to our o-rings, we test fit the aftermarket rail onto our RB25.

The particular rail setup we are using is the JGY unit, and although the fitment is rather questionable, the low cost of this piece makes it manageable.

Ahh... so much nicer

If you own a JGY rail, now is NOT the time to tighten it down to the head unless you feel like removing the rail to plug your injectors in.

hrmm...

After installing the injectors into your rail, install your liquid filled fuel pressure gauge into the 90 degree 1/8th inch NPT fitting, and then screw the entire assembly into the regulator. Depending on your setup, you may need to install the fitting before the gauge.
Next, take the rubber fuel lines off of the hard lines located on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Take a pipe cutter and pick a spot on the hardline that has a fair amount of straight section to it.

Make sure to use caution as to not kink or bend the hard lines, this setup is meant to terminate at the firewall, so if you intend on running full stainless line back to the tank you’ll need more than 4 feet of the hose.

Next take your -6 AN to hard line compression fittings and slip the cone end over the hardline you just cut.

The S13 uses 1/4inch size hardlines, make sure the brass fitting slides snugly over the line and compress the two ends together to create your seal.

After both compression fittings are installed, it’s time to move onward to the injector wiring.

Most companies sell their injector setups complete with pigtails to convert from the old clips to the new ones. If not MSD sells them seperately for around 2 dollars apiece at most retail stores or websites.

Wiring of these injectors is straightforward, make sure to have the injector clip orientation consistent for all six new clips.

Use your -6 male to 3/8th pipe fittings now on either end of your rail,depending on where or how you want to run the lines, the other 4 swivels will comprise the rest of the fuel setup.

Once all the lines and hardware is installed, then tighten the rail brackets onto your head.

We had to use 2 of the brackets as JGY did not properly machine their rail to take 3 mounting brackets. Further we had to use the factory isolators on the opposite side of the bolt to make things tight and secure.

Once bolted down, turn the key to the on position to pressurize the lines so that you can check for leaks. Once we found no leaks we started the car and adjusted the fuel pressure accordingly. Make sure to double check for leaks after the car is started, as pressure will be significantly higher than it was with the key at the “ON” position.

With no leaks and the fuel pressure adjusted, we are now ready to tune the car. With time running late, i use Jesse’s hand held Power FC Commander to make some small adjustments to the part throttle map and the cold start map along with the idle map.

The Power Commander is quite useful if you are in a bind, or need to clear up a rough spot in your tune.

But with a viewable map grid of 9×9 cells, it makes tuning a vehicle such as this rather cumbersome.

Come get some... RB25 Power

Next we will hit the dyno with a full laptop and FC Edit to squeeze as much power out of the S13 as possible.

Stay tuned………..

Case Studies – Jesse’s RB25 S13 – The Beginning

Jesse’s S13 first came to me as a 700 dollar shell with an auto tranny and a completely shot KA24. Within a week, Jesse had sourced a RB25 and tranny and had 2 wiring harnesses ready to be wired up.

When it came to the mounts, Jesse had sourced a shop that was closing in San Jose off of Bird Avenue. After review, the mounts looked to be a Ruckus Racing knockoff, and the shop had left us with doubt, but they worked like a charm

Ruckus Rep Mounts

Within 3 hours, we had the stock KA out and the RB25 mounted and ready to rock and roll.

After dropping the motor in, next was getting the car to run as it was missing the turbos, exhausts, maf and intake pipes.

Deciding to go the budget route, Jesse had me weld a wastegate opening into his manifold, and we opted to use a Ebay adapter flange to go from Garrett flange to the T3 flange. After test mounting the turbo, a Pro Street AN oil return line was installed.

Running a T3 62-1 with a .84 a/r and Stage V hotside, along with a Pro Street downpipe and Pro Street Stage III Intercooler Kit using a Spearco 2-216 core, Jesse’s RB25 put down 325 SAE corrected wheel horsepower at 14 psi on my Dynojet.

Resonators? inline mufflers? who needs that crap?

My time tuning Jesse’s car was limited as his stock side feed injectors just couldn’t keep up with the turbo. After 6000 rpm, the injector duty cycles began to creep above 85% which was well above the Apexi Power FC warning threshold.

Up next : Installing top feed injectors into the S13.